Monday, July 28, 2008

Day 62-64 July 26-28 Ottawa 77K

A very relaxed start to the day, everyone full of energy prior to our anticipated arrival in Ottawa. Unfortunately, Dave II had to ride the bus due to a gimped rear wheel. Ah, what's life without a few surprises.
We were met in Arnprior by a contingent of the Ottawa cycling fraternity. It was a beautiful ride through farm land seeing many brick farm houses that dot the landscape. A few impressive lightening strikes had us pausing st the side of the rode for a short time while the storm passed us by.
Our time here was much more than enjoyable. A outdoor concert by the Creaking Tree string quartet at Rideau Hall, a fine meal at one of Carol's old haunts along the Rideau canal ( the Canal Ritz ), a multitude of bike repairs, the Byward market and just generally hangin' made for a very pleasant two days off.
Nancy, Paul, Ed, Elizabeth, Lynne, Lorna, Ian and Renaud ( I hope I didn't forget anyone )all treated us royally and went far out of their way to make sure that all of our needs were met. A special thanks to Mike at Kunstaadt bike shop for doing such a great job on all our bikes on such short notice.
We're going to be escorted beyond the confines of Ottawa tomorrow morning,
after which we will cross the Ottawa river and, bingo, we'll be in la belle province. Can anyone say " poutine! " --Adele and Pat

Day 59-61 July 23-25 Castleford

Wed. July 23 Sturgeon Falls to Mattawa – 98k

After a relaxing rest day we took off again on Highway 17E. The highway surface was reasonable for much of the day but there continues to be many kilometers of narrow pavement beyond the frost line (maybe 12”) then a very soft, tire clutching, sand and gravel mix. As usual, Ontario also provides road edges with eroded and roughly grooved irregular valleys – particularly hazardous for the narrower tired bikes.

Another source of frustration is the posting of no cycling signs on major highways transiting an urban centre. This happened again in North Bay. Presumably touring cyclists are expected to levitate for numerous kilometers over these sections – of course no information about an alternate route is available!

After about 40k we had a second breakfast in North Bay at Colonel Hogaie’s 1950’s style restaurant, with black and white checkered table clothes. It is in the same building as Passionate Kisses (an adult equipment supply store), so a range of interests could be meet at one convenient location.

Camp was set up at a lovely little site on Taggart Lake – about 6k west of Mattawa. It seems this will be a busy place in a couple of days, thanks to a major music festival in Mattawa.

Dave2

Thursday, July 24 Deep River 108K
A pleasant change of routine was in order this am, we all had breakfast at Myrks restaurant in Mattawa. There were some definate climbs today as we continue to be challenged with only passable roads. We encountered what I call 'close call curve' when logging trucks on both sides of the road passed us with no shoulder. Needless to say a break was in order. This evening we stayed at Ryan's campground on the banks of the Ottawa River.

Friday, July 25 Castleford 117K
The 7:30am start today was in my estimation much to early!! You try to find your rhythum but can't seem to find it. That was me today. As we left Tim Hortons in Petawawa, I got my 5th flat. Things looked up now that we had left behind the infamous Hwy 17- the Trans Canada. We paused in Pembroke to see the numerous wall murals. These back roads offered us a view of farms lands of the Ottawa Valley. Grandview Cottages, again on the Ottawa River, offered us a secluded place to rest our weary mucles. Ottawa tomorrow for a well deserved rest.
Adele

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Day 58, Tuesday, July 22, Sturgeon Falls, rest day

This place has an atomosphere akin to that of one of the Gulf Islands. It is impossible to not slow down and take it easy.

Our day of rest included doing laundry, refilling the beer supply (Jim and Ute) and catching up on the blog (Yvonne).
We hope that the weather stays cool and dry for the days ahead. We're looking forward to getting to Ottawa and finishing up our Ontario stint. It has been a long time since we had a cake to celebrate crossing a provincial border.

Day 57, Monday, July 21, Sturgeon Falls, 103 km

We woke to rain on the tents and traded stories about the night sounds. The skies looked gray and threatening.
We retraced our steps to the highway heading to North Bay. It was a new highway with a good shoulder and with a bit of a following wind we made good time going through place names on the map (Coniston, Wahnaptae) towards Hagar where we had been told there was a restaurant. Brenda phoned to say that it was several kilometers further than that. Meanwhile the shoulder on the road deterioted again with the white line actually going through a pothole or going off the road surface with a 4 inch drop!
The restaurant at the Brunet Truck Stop was owned and managed by a young Mennonite named Kate; the service and food were great and she was genuinely amazed at what we were doing "at our ages".
When we got to the Dutrisac Cottages and Campsite on West Lake Nipissing it didn't take us long to decide to have our rest day here rather than in North Bay as planned. This is a real holiday spot ...... the water is warm and shallow with a sandy bottom. It has the right atmosphere for our day of rest.

Day 56, Sunday, July 20, Sudbury, 103 km

Since we had not had decent coffee in the morning (no power) we stopped in Webbwood just 10 km down the road. The Old Vault is open for breakfast from 6 a.m. and the menu played up the history of the area.
After 43 km we came to Nairn Center which had bathrooms for us. At some point we pulled off at Blueberry Station which was a closed up gas station/diner to eat our lunch in the shade. We have found so many "for sale" or "closed" signs along the highway in Ontario; it is quite worrying aside from the fact that we can't rely on food being available.
Traffic was bumper to bumper today and the highway's shoulder was very narrow and full of holes and deep ruts. It was the worst day of cycling we've had with all our mental and physical energy focussed on not getting in trouble.
Brenda had told us not to go Hwy #55 as we approached Sudbury (in fact, she suggested that we not visit Sudbury as we had originally planned) as it was rough and had no shoulder. However, we came to a divided highway and to the "no cycles" sign and had no choice. But it certainly was quieter and had less traffic so we started to relax.
Eventually after kilometers of new highway and overpasses and no scenery except gravel we came to Carol's Campground which is on Richard Lake, 3 km south of Sudbury.
Later in the afternoon the caravan with the two marathoners arrived....we had been playing leapfrog with them for part of the day. They are each doing a marathon a day in legs of 5 or 10 km at a time; they seem to be well-sponsored.
I think that all of us spent the evening recovering from the terrible cycling conditions.
posted by Yvonne

Day 55, Saturday, July 19, Massey (Chutes Prov. Park), 100 km

We woke to a heavy dew after a sleep filled with the sound of trucks going all through the night. It was cooler which made for pleasant cycling.
We had arranged to meet Brenda for coffee at Algoma Mills. Even though Blind River came first and seemed like a town filled with civic pride (tubs filled with petunias, a fountain in the river, and a large statue by the roadside) we bypassed it as a coffee place though some took advantage of the farmers' market. When we got to Algoma Mills we found that it was essentially a beer store and not much else.
We had followed a wide, slow-moving river earlier in the day and for lunch stopped at Serpent River which had a rapids and open water lilies....quite lovely. We later stopped for coffee and ice-cream in Spanish before reaching Massey.
Massey was a busy little town, full of participants in the following day's marathon (starting at 6 a.m.), half-marathon and 10 k run. We stayed at Chutes Provincial Park which is like a campsite should be.....we loved seeing the families on their holidays.
It was a sad afternoon for us though, as Serge and Stefan, after not finding any accommodation in town, had to go on to Espanola. We will miss their energy and enthusiasm and wish them a safe journey to the Toronto area.
Later in the evening Roland, a fellow cyclist on his own since Winnipeg, came over for a beer. He told us of the horror of the Trans-Canada west of Winnipeg and that he left it after Winnipeg. We were even more pleased with our choice of routes through Manitoba after hearing his story.

Day 54, Friday, July 18, Iron Bridge, 113 km

We left Sault Ste Marie via the old highway as bicycles are not allowed on the new divided highway. Fortunately this was good for us as the highway was quiet though the scenery was not idyllic. We were looking for a bathroom break when we came to a store somewhat like a Buckerfield's. Upon leaving Adele noticed that Udderly Smooth was for sale by the counter for the price of $3.29, a bargain which some of us took advantage of.
We made relatively good time as there was a bit of a tail wind, the hills were not high and we had no places to stop for coffee or second breakfast. We're learning that a name on the map doesn't mean services are there.
We stayed at the Viking campground two kilometers short of Iron Bridge.

Thursday, July 17, 2008

Day 53 - Thursday, July 17 - Rest Day

As we all know '60 is the new 59'. Guess who???
Happy Birthday today to Dave3.

Day 52, Wednesday, July 16, Sault Ste. Marie, 122 kms.

The thought of a ‘day off’ obviously spurred the group on, as we didn’t have our first serious stop for some 45 km. We were told there would be some hills, especially ‘Blueberry Hill’. After we climbed that one, Pat remarked that we should take note of any hill with the name “Blueberry" in it. The last one was the Blueberry-Paulson pass and it was a real climb.

There was a long gentle slope down into Sault Ste. Marie, which made the last 20 km very easy. We all settled into a Hotel to get a break from the bugs. This will be the last we see of Lake Superior. Regrettably there is no Starbuck's to be found in Sault Ste. Marie ;(

The next day will be a rest day.

Some personal observations to this point in the trip. Parts of BC are doing very well as is southern Alberta. Saskatchewan is just starting to boom with the discovery of oil and gas in the Weyburn area. Northern Ontario is really struggling. It seems like every second camping spot and restaurant is for sale. Also, the traffic seems extremely light on the Trans Canada Highway likely due to the large reduction in tourists this year.

It is great when people honk and wave to us as they go by. The happy honks seem out way the mad honks by about 10 to 1.

Dave 3

Day 51, Tuesday, July 15, Montreal River, 118 km

This is a day from the RV driver’s perspective. Went into Wawa for the second time (since yesterday’s shopping expedition) to go to a pharmacy for necessities and get some more bread because our next stop has no store. So got to drive past the 30 foot Canada Goose statue, and 2 others almost as large in the town, again. Had an urgent call on my cell saying someone had trouble with their bike, turned out Serge’s bike had seized up and was unrideable. So had a passenger for the rest of the day (and the next until Sault St Marie).

The terrain was flatter and we got to see some beautiful small beaches and bays on Lake Superior. Went in to see Agawa pictographs on the cliff face overlooking the water – in fact overhanging the water! Could not believe that they let people go out there without guard rails to protect them from falling into the lake! They did have 3 ropes anchored into the rocks and dangling into the water so if you do fall in you can pull yourself up on the ropes. The pictographs themselves are small and about 1500 years old.

We were passed by a family, parents on a tandem carrying everything in a small trailer and a 16 year old son on his bike carrying nothing but water. They are going across Canada about 200 km/day. The son made a point about them all being vegan. Whatever.

Then went up and down a very high and wide hill to reach our day’s destination which was the Twilight resort at Montreal River. Absolutely gorgeous spot right on Lake Superior with a rock beach and a resident bald eagle looking down on us.
I am enjoying seeing Canada 100 km at a time, but am looking forward to leaving northern Ontario mosquitoes and black flies!
Brenda

Day 50, Monday, July 14, Wawa, 92 km

After another motel stay due to crappy weather (defined by Environment Canada as headwinds, rain and mid July fog!), we left Winnie the Poo behind and headed east.

It was cool and damp until we reached H & C Family Lodge - about 30k east of White River. The improvement in weather was facilitated by the best homemade pies (cherry and blueberry) we have experienced since leaving Victoria. The experience was further enhanced by the opportunity for old foggies and foggettes to flirt with the proprietor’s very young children.

The road was fairly flat, with some minor hills approaching Wawa. Fortunately we had following winds and did not have headwinds until the last few kilometers.

The wildflowers along this section are gorgeous. Such floral displays used to be a common scene in the prairies but these disappeared years ago – thanks to contouring and vegetation control in roadside ditches. Hopefully Ontario will continue to have the foresight not to follow this “progressive” approach of its western neighbours.

Tents up and campsite established by 2:35pm – a good day!

Dave2

Sunday, July 13, 2008

Day 49 July 13 White River 96 K

The view from Marathon this morning was downright depressing. Steady drizzle and 8 deg. temp. with a stiff wind. However, after a short day yesterday we knew that we had to "bite the bullet "! We donned our full winter/rain ensemble which we haven't needed since the mountains. Rain jackets, booties, gloves and,for the real wimps, can you believe touques.
Things always improve after a few miles on the bike and so it was today. The highway was first class,hills were gentle, traffic was light and the truckers were very civil. We stopped at Gloria's cafe for a tummy fillup and the weather seemed to improve. No longer cold, but just cool with a nice little breeze to blow us along. We arrived in White river relatively early and decided to motel it as we were all pretty wet and needed to dry out our gear.
Jim and Yvonne are cooking tonite. They always come up with something yummy. Do you get the impression that food is always on our mind? -- Pat!

Saturday, July 12, 2008

Day 48 - July 12th - Marathon - 25KM

After enduring a ferocious overnight storm, we woke up to the sight of a thick, "pea-soup" like fog. This fog and mist was so bad that many people were taking frequent breaks in order to de-fog, if you will, their glasses and sunglasses. Although the safety conditions were sub-par it was quite an easy ride because we were all expecting a fairly mountainous trek. We were greeted by Brenda in Marathon and she had done a great job, as usual, in finding us a great hotel, The Peninsula Inn, that was more of a seven person camper that included a dishwasher and stove as well as a TV in the family room. Everyone had an enjoyable afteroon with some of us spending the afternoon in town while others stayed at home and enjoyed the Saturday sports TV. A great dinner, salmon patties and bean salad with veggies, and a great dessert, ice cream and grapes, capped off the day. Until next time!! Stefan.

Day 45-47 July 10-11 Rossport and Ney's Lunch

Rain and bugs are the mainstay of this stretch of road. We have hit our first major climbs in Ontario into Rossport. We are skirting the shoreline of Lake Superior, a very impressive sight. We got hammered with high winds, rain, thunder and lightning last night. We are undecided how far we go today perhaps Marathon. It will be a good climb out of Ney's Lunch. Until later!! Adele

Thursday, July 10, 2008

Day 44, Wednesday, July 9, Dorion, 90 km

We reluctantly left our soft beds, had a quick breakfast down at Joe's on Arthur Street and left town by local roads. Because of the history of Thunder Bay (Port Arthur and Fort William originally) our street name changed from Simpson, to Fort William, to Water, to Cumberland and finally to Hodder which took us. after 19 kms, back up to Hwys #11/17 where we were finally allowed to cycle.
Very quickly we came to the Terry Fox monument which was inspirational for all of us. Then we were on the highway again with some very bad patches with the shoulder being very narrow and full of holes, as well as the lane for vehicles beside it . It was horrendous for short patches on this two lane Trans-Canada Highway. We had planned to meet Brenda to make lunches but she phoned to say that there were 3 patches of construction ahead. So we stopped at Pass Lake to order a second breakfast/lunch.
We continued on into a headwind until Dorion where we decided that even if we continued we wouldn't get into Nipigon (original destination) until after 5 o'clock. It was very slow going and we were tiring. So we opted to stay at the Wolf River Campground just a few kilometers down the road.
It was a lovely site until the wind died down during the dinner hour and the mosquitoes came out. Even though we tried to be diligent mosquitoes got into the RV where David and Brenda had to fight a war before they could sleep. Those of us in tents fared better as it was a confined space with few places for the nasties to hide.
We hope for better wind tomorrow.
Contributed by Yvonne

Day 43, Tuesday, July 8, Thunder Bay, rest day

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Day 42, Mon. July 7, Thunder Bay

Having been plagued by mosquitoes and black flies the last two days, today was no exception. Never have I seen a "break-camp" so fast. The 90 km road surface from Shabandowan to Thunder bay was - for the most part - quite acceptable.

Our intended breakfast stop became only muffins and buns as there was no cook at the restaurant at the junction of hwy 11 and 17.

We arrived at Kakabeka Falls by last morning, and enjoyed wandering along the several pathways on both sides of the river.

Continuing toward Thunder Bay, we were presented with a recently opened by-pass route and traffic signs indicating "no bikes". There was no indication of where cyclists should proceed or how we should levitate to our destination. No posted bike routes; no map of alternate routes; no bike path - just a sign to suggest "no bikes".

Tomorrow (Tuesday) is a rest day in Thunder Bay.
Contributed by Ute Grayson.

Day 41, Sun. July 6 Shebandowan, 122 km.

Last night we fended off the black flies and mosquitoes, Jim and Serge being the least successful. The two of them also got up for a 3 a.m. walk under sheets of lightning. The rain that accompanied it did little damage.

In the morning we packed up soaked tents, grabbed some granola bars and were on the bikes by 7. At a Can-Op in North Quetico we shared eggs and sausages with four members of the David Thompson Canoe brigade. One was a veteran of the winning Manitoba Canoe in the 1967 Rocky Mountain Hourse to Montreal voyageur race.

After breakfast we headed back out and came across the change in watersheds from Hudson Bay to the Atlantic Ocean. From there we were greeted by a phenomenal tailwind which pushed us through our original destination of Kashabowie, where we ate lunch, on to Shebandowan where we stayed at a relaxing R.V. Park. We were treated to a beautiful pasta salad by Jim and Yvonne. The night ended early as we lost an hour by entering the Eastern time zone. All-in-all it was a very eventful day. Submitted by Serge and Stefan.

Day 40, Sat. July 5. Atikokan, 91.5 km

About 8 a.m. we left Bliss Campground, Mine centre, amid a cloud of mosquitoes and black flies. "Bliss" is not exactly how I would describe the campsite, with a 200 m walk to the unisex washroom.

This morning traffic was very light on Hwy 11, with the occasional pulp-wood logging truck. For the full extent of the 91 km to Atikokan, there were no rest stops of any kind and almost no shade in which to seek shelter and relief in the 32 degree heat.

The only wildlife seen was a golden eagle. There were a few swampy bogs with beaver lodges, but no beaver seen. We keep hoping to see moose, bu no luck so far - maybe tomorrow. Submitted by Jim Grayson. P.s., yesterday's was submitted by Carol Judd. She apologizes for forgetting to sign her name.

Day 39, Fri. July 4, Mine Centre, 103km.

At Emo we camped on the beside Rainy River. On the other shore, some 400 metres away, was Wisconsin. Therefore, when we left our campsites today we were as close to the U.S. as we will get on this trip and, as luck would have it, just in time for its fourth of July celebrations.

We cruised 30km into Fort Frances where Dave 3 finally found a Starbucks. The caffeine in his chai latte kept him on a high for the rest of the day. Most of the others ate our now usual second breakfast at a real restaurant.

On a roll with a tailwind we headed out to the causeway over Rainy Lake only to be stopped by the OPP who said there had been an accident and the road would likely be closed for an hour and a half. After an hour baking in the sun we set off once again and, helped by our faithful tailwind, mosquitoes and horseflies, we arrived in Mine Centre by 2:30 p.m.

We are on a beautiful lake (perhaps Seine Lake) at a campground called Bliss. It is a bit rustic, with one co-ed toilet and two co-ed showers. Nothing went amiss, however, until Dave 2 was showering in his stall and someone minced into the second stall announcing herself as Rita. To Dave's complete credit, he kept his eyes firmly averted and his embarrasment to himself. This was witnessed to be absolutely true by Dave 3 (aka Rita).

Another exciting moment happened when Serge and Stephan were cooking their first dinner - a fine fettuccini alfredo - when Serge used an oily rag as a pot holder and nearly set the R.V. on fire. Luck was on our side once again and the R.V. is hardly worse for the mishap.

Thursday, July 3, 2008

Day 38, Thursday, July 3, Emo, 110 km

Today was full of more beautiful lakes, hillier hills and trees. The road was again comfortable to ride on and the traffic was light. We had coffee/second breakfast 49 km into the ride at Nestor Falls and continued on through Finland to the junction with #11 where we turned east for 6 km, ending up in Emo. The terrain around Finland had changed to more flat and open areas with some farming evident. The road was quite straight with gentle hills.
We were worried about finding a spot in Emo to stay, though we knew there was a motel here. I had not read about any group/person staying in Emo and hadn't planned originally in stopping here. However, here we are and we are delighted! We had advice from David Cain (Sue's husband) to inquire at the OPP office if it was open. So Brenda did and we are now camped in the gorgeous Lions Park overlooking Rainy River with a view across to the US. We even have a cooking shelter and showers! How is that for continuing with our good luck?
The weather is cooperating and the cycling is enjoyable. We expect to not be able to communicate until we arrive in Thunder Bay in 5 days.
Posted by Yvonne from the Emo Public Library

Day 37, Wednesday, July 2, Sioux Narrows, 81 km

This morning we easily followed the signs out of Kenora and onto Highway 71 heading south. After 26 km we arrived at the Rushing River General Store to be greeted by Carol's neice (Sue Cain) with coffee and muffins from Tim Horton's. What a treat for our now traditional second breakfast! We had our lunch at Sioux Narrows and quickly found a nearby campsite/marina. Paradise Point actually turned out to be a better site than we thought on initial sight. There were several mule deer does and their fawns very comfortable in roaming back and forth through the boat trailers and RVs. The evening calm that came over the lake was enjoyed by all of us from the large deck overlooking the dock and boat ramp. The tranquility made many of us think of our summer holidays beside lakes.
The landscape changed again today. The road was gently hilly and curvy with mostly a decent shoulder. There were many marshes and small lakes where we expected to see moose but didn't. Wild flowers were in abundance by the roadside: daisies, wild marigold, pokeweed, yellow lady's slippers, wood lilies, etc. The granite chunks were large and became more plentiful. Signs of beaver were common and we saw a black bear crossing the road and a bald eagle landing in its nest.
I learned from Dave 2 about lobsticks and spent some time trying to spot one.
All for now, from Yvonne

Tuesday, July 1, 2008

Day 36, Tuesday, July 1st (Canada Day), Kenora, 108.7 km

The horseflies abated to some degree and the road improved immensely. Coffee which has become a second breakfast was at Falcon Lake. Our server was in his red scarlet uniform and wished us all a safe day. Manitoba was handing out free hotdogs, cake and coffee at their info center. However Ontario's info center offered us nada. It was really hot so we took refuge at the side of the road for lunch.

We were startled by a highway motorcycle policeman who did a U-turn and flashed his lights. Were the laws different in Ontario??? It turns out that Carol's neice is an OPP member in Kenora and had sent him out to check our progress. Carol's neice and her husband joined us for supper during a wild storm that included hail. Yvonne and Jim (the Chefs de jour) were brilliant in making supper under a dripping oak tree.

We are heading south along highway 71 and 11. There wil be very few opportunities to update the blog for a while. Be in touch when we can.

Dave 3

Day 35, Monday, June 30, Prawda, 121 km

Serge and Stefan took us through a very painless route out of the city. Before we knew it we were in St. Anne's for coffee and our second breakfast. On the highway we were surrounded by horseflies. It seemed like we had our own personal cloud of flies. We also started to hit some bad roads... we were really unimpressed. We were worried that this was a omen of things to come. The change in terrain from the great plains to boreal forest happened really suddenly. Gone are the wide expanses of prairie to be replaced by rock and black spruce.

From Dave 3