I arrived in St. John's yesterday afternoon just in time to be at the door as Joe of Canary Bicycles was closing up for the weekend. He very helpfully delivered a bike box to the Delta where I got a room on the top floor overlooking the harbour.
On the ferry Friday night were 8 other cyclists, 5 of whom I had met somewhere along the way. We traded stories, of course, and surprisingly not one of us saw a live moose despite all the signage along the way. The scenery along Hwy #100 and #1 was unlike anything I had seen anywhere on the journey; the very stunted evergreens, granite outcroppings and small surface "ponds" reminded me of how far north Nfld is comparatively.
St. John's is a fun city, with steep streets and walkways leading away from the harbour. The "saltbox" houses are colourful and rise up from the downtown. I had to do some pleading to get my tattoo done this afternoon but Adam at Studio Maxx fitted me in at the end of his fully booked afternoon. Thanks to Dave 3 and Jim for the design...I love it!
I totalled up my distance travelled to this point and got 6918.9 km (first computation). It was done a day at a time and was a wonderful journey. Thank you to Dave and Brenda, Pat and Adele, Jim and Ute, Carol and Dave 2 for making the experience possible. You are a great group of friends.
from Yvonne
Sunday, August 24, 2008
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
Postscript: The Tattoo!
We all knew when we left on this very special bicycle trip that it would forever touch our lives. But only a week or so ago did we begin to discuss any kind of permanent mark to commemorate the tour.
Today we brought closure to the trip by taking a design that David developed (with lots of input from the rest of us) to a genuine tattoo parlour, going under the needle as a group and coming out with identical tattoos that we will be pleased to show to all our friends and relations.
Clover, David and Brenda's RCMP daughter, was especially delighted that we were getting tattoos. They're great for identifying bodies, she told us. There you go. Fun for ourselves and easy on our heirs! :)
Submitted by Adele, David, Pat, Brenda, Dave 2 and Carol
Today we brought closure to the trip by taking a design that David developed (with lots of input from the rest of us) to a genuine tattoo parlour, going under the needle as a group and coming out with identical tattoos that we will be pleased to show to all our friends and relations.
Clover, David and Brenda's RCMP daughter, was especially delighted that we were getting tattoos. They're great for identifying bodies, she told us. There you go. Fun for ourselves and easy on our heirs! :)
Submitted by Adele, David, Pat, Brenda, Dave 2 and Carol
Tuesday, August 19, 2008
Postscript: RV Driver's Report
Always heading east, 90 -130 km a day - what a great way to see the country.
New grocery store, buying huge quantities of food that disappeared in hours - that was my daily routine.
Then, finding the next campground, a challenge because they are often not well marked, negotiating the price, another challenge, then setting up to wait for the cyclists to arrive. I set small neon cones on the road to show people where to turn in, until they were swiped. We lost three cones that way. So if the way was tricky, I would stand on the road being a human cone to wave the cyclists in.
The prettiest part of the whole trip was on the south shore of the St. Lawrence River. Several of the villages were rated in the list of the "Most beautiful towns of Quebec".
I never ceased to be amazed at what the cyclists were doing.
Submitted by Brenda.
New grocery store, buying huge quantities of food that disappeared in hours - that was my daily routine.
Then, finding the next campground, a challenge because they are often not well marked, negotiating the price, another challenge, then setting up to wait for the cyclists to arrive. I set small neon cones on the road to show people where to turn in, until they were swiped. We lost three cones that way. So if the way was tricky, I would stand on the road being a human cone to wave the cyclists in.
The prettiest part of the whole trip was on the south shore of the St. Lawrence River. Several of the villages were rated in the list of the "Most beautiful towns of Quebec".
I never ceased to be amazed at what the cyclists were doing.
Submitted by Brenda.
Hi from Yvonne, Tuesday, Cape Breton Island
It was great to see that everyone arrived in Halifax in good time. I stayed in Antigonish last night, largely because the next accommodation meant 4 more hours on the bike. I plan to take the ferry to NFLD on Friday. Looking forward to Mile Zero in St. John's. Yvonne
Postscript: Pastries of Note
One of the sub-plots of our journey was a raucus search for the best cinnamon buns in country. Here is Ute's report on the best cinnamon buns (and other treats) that we encountered en route.
Pastries of note:
Here's the report for the best cinnamon buns. Greenwood, B.C. (Greenwood Bakery?), we all agree, is "Number One" - large, lots of cinnamon and raisins. Number Two - bakery, downtown in Nelson - large, lots of cinnamon and pecans. Kate's a truck stop in Hagar, Ont. (one redeeming factor for Northern Ontario). Hers were a good 2 1/2, light and cinnamony, no raisins but lots of icing. The Atlantic Provinces were a "bust", mostly biscuit type of dough, very heavy and almost tasteless.
Now on to pies. Both of these were excellent and "neck and neck". Fresh, hand picked wild blueberries 31 kms. east of White River, Ontario at H & S Family Outfitters, as well as flaky pastry. Also "number one", raspberry pie at the Petro-Canada (Acorn) restaurant across the road from Kings Landing, N.B. Light,flaky pastry as well as fresh berry filling. Also great was their coconut cream pie.
Our last sampling ws at Rob Bitar's pizza shop,Hwy 2 Elmsdale,N.S. The carrot cake, the chocolate fudge brownie and the caramel cheese cake, were reported as "excellent"!
Pastries of note:
Here's the report for the best cinnamon buns. Greenwood, B.C. (Greenwood Bakery?), we all agree, is "Number One" - large, lots of cinnamon and raisins. Number Two - bakery, downtown in Nelson - large, lots of cinnamon and pecans. Kate's a truck stop in Hagar, Ont. (one redeeming factor for Northern Ontario). Hers were a good 2 1/2, light and cinnamony, no raisins but lots of icing. The Atlantic Provinces were a "bust", mostly biscuit type of dough, very heavy and almost tasteless.
Now on to pies. Both of these were excellent and "neck and neck". Fresh, hand picked wild blueberries 31 kms. east of White River, Ontario at H & S Family Outfitters, as well as flaky pastry. Also "number one", raspberry pie at the Petro-Canada (Acorn) restaurant across the road from Kings Landing, N.B. Light,flaky pastry as well as fresh berry filling. Also great was their coconut cream pie.
Our last sampling ws at Rob Bitar's pizza shop,Hwy 2 Elmsdale,N.S. The carrot cake, the chocolate fudge brownie and the caramel cheese cake, were reported as "excellent"!
Monday, August 18, 2008
Day 85, Aug. 18, Penthouse, Super 8 Hotel, Dartmouth, 104 km
Hey folks, we're done! We're here! We cycled from sea to sea! We are eight happy people right now. We're not sure it has sunk in yet, but we are very proud of ourselves. We are also proud of the fact that each of us cycled 7,000 km with a 100% safety record, despite the distance and especially despite the often miserable road and weather conditions. For much of the country this was the summer that didn't happen, and we were there to witness it up close and personal.
Today's ride was much easier than yesterday's, although it wasn't the ceremonial three trips around the Champs Elysees we thought it would be. The sun was shining, the wind was reasonable and the roads were relatively flat, at least until we got near the city.
Right now all eight of us are happily ensconced in this penthouse suite, a far cry from the cramped tents on wet ground we have been experiencing of late. And it is from this launching pad that we will be returning home to Victoria to reconnect with our families, friends and others.
Save the forks!!!!!
Submitted by all of us.
Today's ride was much easier than yesterday's, although it wasn't the ceremonial three trips around the Champs Elysees we thought it would be. The sun was shining, the wind was reasonable and the roads were relatively flat, at least until we got near the city.
Right now all eight of us are happily ensconced in this penthouse suite, a far cry from the cramped tents on wet ground we have been experiencing of late. And it is from this launching pad that we will be returning home to Victoria to reconnect with our families, friends and others.
Save the forks!!!!!
Submitted by all of us.
Sunday, August 17, 2008
Day 84, Stone House Motel, Truro, 102 km.
Three drowned rats from yesterday's tough ride decided to wuss out and travel in the RV today. Good thing we did. The four who actually cycled here were assaulted by ferocious headwinds and lots of hills. They arrived exhausted but triumphant here in Truro. We, on the other hand enjoyed the sunshine out the window of the RV, saving ourselves for the final push tomorrow into Halifax.
We are seven now because Yvonne left us yesterday to travel solo to St. John's. She is very strong and is looking forward to being able to go at her own speed and for her own distance each day.
Tonight we celebrated the end of yet another province with our usual cake and one candle for each province down.
In case people are interested, the cyclists today were Ute and Jim, Adele and Pat. Congratulations to them. Submitted by Carol
We are seven now because Yvonne left us yesterday to travel solo to St. John's. She is very strong and is looking forward to being able to go at her own speed and for her own distance each day.
Tonight we celebrated the end of yet another province with our usual cake and one candle for each province down.
In case people are interested, the cyclists today were Ute and Jim, Adele and Pat. Congratulations to them. Submitted by Carol
Day 83, Aug. 16, Lord Selkirk Prov Park, 96 km.
The weather was a bit foggy and cloudy when we left this morning, that lifted to fine sunshine after about an hour. The route along highway 1 was hillier than we anticipated but we made good time with a handy tailwind. Just before Charlottetown we stopped at a little factory outlet mall. From there into the city was wall to wall with big box outlets, so we arrived disappointed with the city as it had recently become.
After lunch we headed toward the Lord Selkirk - lots of hills. Lo and behold, it started to rain. We stopped to put our rain gear on.
Suddenly Dave 2 said he couldn't find his cell phone. The last place we'd been was the restaurant so David said he would phone 411 to get the number so he could see if they had found it. Dave took the David's phone and got an automated message which he couldn't hear because of the traffic noise. Off he went away from the road to try again. He was away for a long time. Just before he came back, I said I hoped the phone was just lost in one of his paniers. So Jim said, "Why don't I phone Dave's number". So he did and we huddled around DAve's bike listening to hear whether his paniers rang. Instead, we saw him emerging from his quiet spot saying "Hello! Hello!" into David's phone.
By the time he got to us he realized it was his pocket that was ringing and not David's phone. Problem solved. Dave had automatically put his phone in his jacket pocket when he put on his rain gear then had promptly forgotten that he had done it. No problem. We were once again all ready to leave when Dave said "Oh no, I must have left my glasses where I was using the phone. I took them off so I could read the phone numbers." It will take him awhile to live that down.
After about 10 minutes on the road it started to rain buckets and we cycled into camp 45 minutes later totally drenched. It was the worst rainstorm we have yet cycled through. The rain kept up pretty much all night.
Our spirits soared, however, when Yvonne's friend, Donna (who lives in King City Ontario but spends her summers here) brought all the fixings for lobster dinner, including freshly caught lobster, potato salad, corn on the cob and lemon meringue pie, and we ate it all in a lovely shelter. What a great way to say goodbye to PEI after such a very short visit. Submitted by Carol.
After lunch we headed toward the Lord Selkirk - lots of hills. Lo and behold, it started to rain. We stopped to put our rain gear on.
Suddenly Dave 2 said he couldn't find his cell phone. The last place we'd been was the restaurant so David said he would phone 411 to get the number so he could see if they had found it. Dave took the David's phone and got an automated message which he couldn't hear because of the traffic noise. Off he went away from the road to try again. He was away for a long time. Just before he came back, I said I hoped the phone was just lost in one of his paniers. So Jim said, "Why don't I phone Dave's number". So he did and we huddled around DAve's bike listening to hear whether his paniers rang. Instead, we saw him emerging from his quiet spot saying "Hello! Hello!" into David's phone.
By the time he got to us he realized it was his pocket that was ringing and not David's phone. Problem solved. Dave had automatically put his phone in his jacket pocket when he put on his rain gear then had promptly forgotten that he had done it. No problem. We were once again all ready to leave when Dave said "Oh no, I must have left my glasses where I was using the phone. I took them off so I could read the phone numbers." It will take him awhile to live that down.
After about 10 minutes on the road it started to rain buckets and we cycled into camp 45 minutes later totally drenched. It was the worst rainstorm we have yet cycled through. The rain kept up pretty much all night.
Our spirits soared, however, when Yvonne's friend, Donna (who lives in King City Ontario but spends her summers here) brought all the fixings for lobster dinner, including freshly caught lobster, potato salad, corn on the cob and lemon meringue pie, and we ate it all in a lovely shelter. What a great way to say goodbye to PEI after such a very short visit. Submitted by Carol.
Day 82, August 15, Sun & Shade, Confederation Bridge, PEI, 94 km
Today we crossed another provincial boundary and celebrated with our usual cake and candles, one for each province conquered.
We left Moncton with a tailwind and maintained high speeds on Highway 1 to Shediac. The clouds lifted soon after we got on the road and the sun came out, so we had a second straight day of sunshine. The conditions were right to get to Shediac in excellent time. We entered in the middle of the town, however, so we didn't get to see the world's largest lobster. (This area is the southern section of Acadia) We stopped for lunch at Cap Pelee, where we learned that today was la fete d'Acadie (Acadia Day), an annual celebration of Acadian culture.
We stopped again at the Murray Beach Provincial Park and soaked up the sun and the knowledge that we had at last reached the Atlantic Ocean for sure and our great expedition was nearly over.
It remained sunny for the rest of the day - to cross the Confederation Bridge (by special bicycle shuttle) get our photos taken at the Welcome to P.E.I. sign and cycle the 2 km to the campground.
That night the campground had a bluegrass band that was free if you camped there. Naturally we all went despite the fact that we would be awake after sunset. After the first intermission when some of us left they had amateur night. Those who stayed to the end said the amateurs were very good. We certainly enjoyed the enthusiasm of the audience, and the musc eas great fun too. Submitted by Carol.
We left Moncton with a tailwind and maintained high speeds on Highway 1 to Shediac. The clouds lifted soon after we got on the road and the sun came out, so we had a second straight day of sunshine. The conditions were right to get to Shediac in excellent time. We entered in the middle of the town, however, so we didn't get to see the world's largest lobster. (This area is the southern section of Acadia) We stopped for lunch at Cap Pelee, where we learned that today was la fete d'Acadie (Acadia Day), an annual celebration of Acadian culture.
We stopped again at the Murray Beach Provincial Park and soaked up the sun and the knowledge that we had at last reached the Atlantic Ocean for sure and our great expedition was nearly over.
It remained sunny for the rest of the day - to cross the Confederation Bridge (by special bicycle shuttle) get our photos taken at the Welcome to P.E.I. sign and cycle the 2 km to the campground.
That night the campground had a bluegrass band that was free if you camped there. Naturally we all went despite the fact that we would be awake after sunset. After the first intermission when some of us left they had amateur night. Those who stayed to the end said the amateurs were very good. We certainly enjoyed the enthusiasm of the audience, and the musc eas great fun too. Submitted by Carol.
Day 81, August 14, Campers City, Moncton, 93 km
I forgot to mention that yesterday we cycled 84 km. Today we were on a high, fairly flat seldom used road with varying surface. The view was gently pastoral and the weather was cool but sunny. Where we met with highway 2 we stopped at the Salisbury Irving "Big Stop". It is the most amazing service station, with a full restaurant, tourist information, bakery, souvenirs, and many other sections.
After the Big Stop we took highway 2 and rode the last 21 km on this busy route. Altogether it was a great cycling day. Submitted by Carol.
After the Big Stop we took highway 2 and rode the last 21 km on this busy route. Altogether it was a great cycling day. Submitted by Carol.
Day 80, August 13, Campers Cove, Coles Island
We left Fredericton under cloudy but clearing skies and by the time we reached McGowan's Corner (25 km) where we met Al Burpee, David's friend from Winnipeg, the sun was beginning to poke through.
To add to the occasion, a CBC crew from Fredericton came out and interviewed us for the 6 o'clock news. We were all brilliant, of course, and had a great time. We have been telling people that the cause we are cycling for is "Free the Geese!!!" Pat told the CBC people this was our cause, and they asked what that meant. Pat said, "We don't know - we're just a bunch of old farts having fun." That about sums it up.
After Jemseq, about 40 km from our start, the terrain went from flat to fairly hilly by crossing the river and cycling on 695 then 715 to Coles Island. The countryside was lovely and we happened upon a weaver's place where we spent time enjoying her fine work (and buying it, too). Submitted by Carol.
To add to the occasion, a CBC crew from Fredericton came out and interviewed us for the 6 o'clock news. We were all brilliant, of course, and had a great time. We have been telling people that the cause we are cycling for is "Free the Geese!!!" Pat told the CBC people this was our cause, and they asked what that meant. Pat said, "We don't know - we're just a bunch of old farts having fun." That about sums it up.
After Jemseq, about 40 km from our start, the terrain went from flat to fairly hilly by crossing the river and cycling on 695 then 715 to Coles Island. The countryside was lovely and we happened upon a weaver's place where we spent time enjoying her fine work (and buying it, too). Submitted by Carol.
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
Day 79, Tuesday, Aug. 12, Fredericton, rest day
Watching the Olympic coverage, catching up on the blog, and doing other errands. Off again tomorrow on the final leg of our journey. By the way, it's still raining out there.
Day 78, Monday, August 10, Fredericton,70 km
This day was relatively uneventful with a minor detour from route 105 onto highway 2 near Kings Landing. Here we met another cross Canada cyclist at the Acorn restaurant on a fund raising trip – he was moving fast as he left Vancouver on July 1st.
We returned to route 105 on the first highway exit and remained on that to Halifax. As the following day was a rest day we went directly to the Ramada Inn – preceded by a short downpour (unusual for this trip!) and slopped into the lobby like wet ducks.
The hotel room cost includes a hot breakfast (not oatmeal!!)
Dave2
We returned to route 105 on the first highway exit and remained on that to Halifax. As the following day was a rest day we went directly to the Ramada Inn – preceded by a short downpour (unusual for this trip!) and slopped into the lobby like wet ducks.
The hotel room cost includes a hot breakfast (not oatmeal!!)
Dave2
Day 77, Sunday, August 10, Pokiok, NB, 118 km
We started our new routine today of a half-hour later start as it is dark at 6 a.m. with the time zone change that happened at the border.
We continued on Hwy #105 south to Florenceville, the French Fry Capital of the World, which has a large McCain's factory and the Potato World Museum. Obviously, we passed numerous potato fields. We crossed the St. John River on #130 heading south.
At 40 km into the day's ride we entered the village of Hartland, home of the longest covered bridge in the world (1282 feet). We looked down the length of it but didn't venture in as it was narrow and dark inside!
We continued on #105, now on the other side of the river, and the hills began! But we can recommend this road as we had it to ourselves; all the through traffic goes on the new Trans-Canada. At 63 km we came to Woodstock, a large center with a fading downtown area but with new box stores out by the new highway.
Coming out of Woodstock we decided to take the new highway #2. It is a very comfortable ride, road-surface wise with a huge shoulder but has heavy traffic. We wondered about the area having 3 perfectly good roads servicing essentially the same route! At exit #212 it was pointed out to me that leaving at exit #231 meant that we had 19 more kilometres to ride....quite a change from the planned length of ride. We were exhausted riders who came into the lovely View campground at Pokiok.
Again, we noticed the lack of tourists during the high season for travelling....lousy weather and high gas prices seem to be the cause.
We continued on Hwy #105 south to Florenceville, the French Fry Capital of the World, which has a large McCain's factory and the Potato World Museum. Obviously, we passed numerous potato fields. We crossed the St. John River on #130 heading south.
At 40 km into the day's ride we entered the village of Hartland, home of the longest covered bridge in the world (1282 feet). We looked down the length of it but didn't venture in as it was narrow and dark inside!
We continued on #105, now on the other side of the river, and the hills began! But we can recommend this road as we had it to ourselves; all the through traffic goes on the new Trans-Canada. At 63 km we came to Woodstock, a large center with a fading downtown area but with new box stores out by the new highway.
Coming out of Woodstock we decided to take the new highway #2. It is a very comfortable ride, road-surface wise with a huge shoulder but has heavy traffic. We wondered about the area having 3 perfectly good roads servicing essentially the same route! At exit #212 it was pointed out to me that leaving at exit #231 meant that we had 19 more kilometres to ride....quite a change from the planned length of ride. We were exhausted riders who came into the lovely View campground at Pokiok.
Again, we noticed the lack of tourists during the high season for travelling....lousy weather and high gas prices seem to be the cause.
Day 76, Saturday, Aug. 9, 17 km south of Perth-Andover, NB, 92 km
Not a very auspicious start to the day. It began raining shortly before 6:OO in the morning. It wasn't difficult to convince everyone to spend an extra half hour in their tents. It's always difficult to predict how a day will play out. Despite a wet and dark morning, the rest of the day turned out pretty well, weather wise.
Highway #130 gave us a gentle downgrade along the St. John River valley through to Grand Falls, where we viewed the river gorge and the falls. It must have been one hell of a portage for the early voyageurs. Following the St. John River valley we continued through the village of Perth - Andover which is divided by the river. Although not the same as the little Quebecois villages, these little NB villages do have their own panache.
We finished the day at 92k at River Country campground, a lovely little spot. Adele and David cooked up a sumptuous meal of "Brenda comfort food" and our little group of intrepid travellers ended the day with a full tummy and a smile on our faces.
A point to ponder - in the immortal words of Tolkien - " all those who wander are not lost '!--Pat!!
Highway #130 gave us a gentle downgrade along the St. John River valley through to Grand Falls, where we viewed the river gorge and the falls. It must have been one hell of a portage for the early voyageurs. Following the St. John River valley we continued through the village of Perth - Andover which is divided by the river. Although not the same as the little Quebecois villages, these little NB villages do have their own panache.
We finished the day at 92k at River Country campground, a lovely little spot. Adele and David cooked up a sumptuous meal of "Brenda comfort food" and our little group of intrepid travellers ended the day with a full tummy and a smile on our faces.
A point to ponder - in the immortal words of Tolkien - " all those who wander are not lost '!--Pat!!
Day 74 & 75, continued by Jim and Ute re trail system
Petit Temis Interprovincial Linear Park
The 134 km Temis connects Riviere-du-Loup, QC and Edmundston, NB on an abandoned railroad bed and does not exceed 4% grade. The trail surface is well-packed screened gravel, but is not recommended for narrow bicycle tires (anything less than 30 mm width). Our moderately laden tandem is on 35 mm tires and was not compromised, except in one or two ery short (5 to 10 m) sections of interim repairs following recent trail wash-outs. Yes, part of the trail is paved, but is limited to a half-kilometre section within each of two villages.
Throughout the entire length of this delightfully scenic and picturesque trail, we observed (and made occasional use of) frequently located (dry) toilet facilities and convenient covered picnic tables. Many of the rest areas also included well designed and constructed tent platforms, estimated at about 4 metres square.
Soon after leaving Riviere-du-Loup, we noted a fully modern flush toilet facility, and later encountered a small, trail-side cafe in an old station house.
As we proceeded from one village to another, we were presented with many different vistas as well as a variety of wildflowers.
This trail - for the exclusive use of pedestrians and bicyclists - is also designated as parts of the Trans-Canada Trail and La Route Verte systems. It is our recommendation that this trail should be properly asphalt paved for its entire length.
Additional (non-personal) information is available at http://www.petit-temis.com/
submitted by Ute and Jim
The 134 km Temis connects Riviere-du-Loup, QC and Edmundston, NB on an abandoned railroad bed and does not exceed 4% grade. The trail surface is well-packed screened gravel, but is not recommended for narrow bicycle tires (anything less than 30 mm width). Our moderately laden tandem is on 35 mm tires and was not compromised, except in one or two ery short (5 to 10 m) sections of interim repairs following recent trail wash-outs. Yes, part of the trail is paved, but is limited to a half-kilometre section within each of two villages.
Throughout the entire length of this delightfully scenic and picturesque trail, we observed (and made occasional use of) frequently located (dry) toilet facilities and convenient covered picnic tables. Many of the rest areas also included well designed and constructed tent platforms, estimated at about 4 metres square.
Soon after leaving Riviere-du-Loup, we noted a fully modern flush toilet facility, and later encountered a small, trail-side cafe in an old station house.
As we proceeded from one village to another, we were presented with many different vistas as well as a variety of wildflowers.
This trail - for the exclusive use of pedestrians and bicyclists - is also designated as parts of the Trans-Canada Trail and La Route Verte systems. It is our recommendation that this trail should be properly asphalt paved for its entire length.
Additional (non-personal) information is available at http://www.petit-temis.com/
submitted by Ute and Jim
Day 75, Aug. 8, Riviere Grande, St Leonard, N.B., 93 km
We put our watches forward at the border to our new province. The Info Centre was excellent, with well informed staff and we got lots of little tips about how to navigate N.B. with its new and old highway systems often running parallel to each other. It felt good conquering yet another province and entering what we are all taking as the final phase of this incredible journey.
Some people took the new highway, highway 2, which was hilly, fast, busy and with good shoulders. Others took highway 144 which was pleasant, quiet and flat. Nevertheless, we all had to get over the remaining wicked hills in the last few kms. of Quebec.
It was a "short" day for us. The weather was off and on rain, some wind but not bad, river at our side, etc. etc. The Info centre suggested we have a meal at a motel/auberge - this is the French end of N.B. after all - not far from the border. We went there but they didn't serve lunch. We were a bit early, but from th linen tablecloths, we wondered if their statement should have included "we don't serve lunch wo wet, bedraggled cyslists. So we went on to a canteen, self designated as the best in the region.
We enjoyed the ride to the campsite which was virtually empty because it rained here 29 days in June and 22 in July and pretty much every day so far in August. People are staying away in droves. Campgrounds are waterlogged, and for that matter, so are we!
Tomorrow is another day. Submitted by Carol.
Some people took the new highway, highway 2, which was hilly, fast, busy and with good shoulders. Others took highway 144 which was pleasant, quiet and flat. Nevertheless, we all had to get over the remaining wicked hills in the last few kms. of Quebec.
It was a "short" day for us. The weather was off and on rain, some wind but not bad, river at our side, etc. etc. The Info centre suggested we have a meal at a motel/auberge - this is the French end of N.B. after all - not far from the border. We went there but they didn't serve lunch. We were a bit early, but from th linen tablecloths, we wondered if their statement should have included "we don't serve lunch wo wet, bedraggled cyslists. So we went on to a canteen, self designated as the best in the region.
We enjoyed the ride to the campsite which was virtually empty because it rained here 29 days in June and 22 in July and pretty much every day so far in August. People are staying away in droves. Campgrounds are waterlogged, and for that matter, so are we!
Tomorrow is another day. Submitted by Carol.
Day 74, Thursday, Aug. 7 Municipal campground, Notre Dame du Lac 115 km
We left Sebka early (7:30) in an effort to get out ahead of the wind, which we noticed seems to get stronger as the day gets longer. We succeeded; however we didn't anticipate the fog that remained with us even as the wind sprung up - need I say, in our faces. By the time we got to Riviere du Loup, the fog had lifted and the winds had not reached the level of yesterday.
Riviere du Loup has a very high hill that goes straight up the escarpment. When we asked how to get to the the highly recommended trail that runs all the way to Edmunston in New Brunswick we were told at the info centre to go straight up that hill and turn right at the top. It so happens that one or two of us knew that there was an easier way than straight up. This route turned off about two blocks into the ride, before the hill. Dave 3, now known as David, was in the lead. He didn't know about the bicycle detour and went straight up the hill. Apparently near the top he looked back (he says it was about a 14% grade) to see that he was all alone. The rest of had taken the easier route. David survived and the rest of us had a good laugh. Though I suppose he had the last laugh for having survived a four block hill at such a steep pitch.
The day wasn't over however. Dave, David and I decided we should try to take the trail. We went a short distance on the Petit Temis trail (to be described by Ute and Jim later) but found it was too soft for our bikes and we decided we needed to go on the highway instead. We lost about an hour going in circles but advancing only about 5 km, but made good time once we got on the highway (185) which was hillier but had good shoulders. Of course, we had to expect hills as we were going over a mountain range. At the end of the day we had logged 115 km.
Dave and I were the cooks for the day so our day was especially long before we could relax and enjoy the lovely lake we were camped beside.
Submitted by Carol.
Riviere du Loup has a very high hill that goes straight up the escarpment. When we asked how to get to the the highly recommended trail that runs all the way to Edmunston in New Brunswick we were told at the info centre to go straight up that hill and turn right at the top. It so happens that one or two of us knew that there was an easier way than straight up. This route turned off about two blocks into the ride, before the hill. Dave 3, now known as David, was in the lead. He didn't know about the bicycle detour and went straight up the hill. Apparently near the top he looked back (he says it was about a 14% grade) to see that he was all alone. The rest of had taken the easier route. David survived and the rest of us had a good laugh. Though I suppose he had the last laugh for having survived a four block hill at such a steep pitch.
The day wasn't over however. Dave, David and I decided we should try to take the trail. We went a short distance on the Petit Temis trail (to be described by Ute and Jim later) but found it was too soft for our bikes and we decided we needed to go on the highway instead. We lost about an hour going in circles but advancing only about 5 km, but made good time once we got on the highway (185) which was hillier but had good shoulders. Of course, we had to expect hills as we were going over a mountain range. At the end of the day we had logged 115 km.
Dave and I were the cooks for the day so our day was especially long before we could relax and enjoy the lovely lake we were camped beside.
Submitted by Carol.
Day 73, Wednesday, Aug. 6, Sebka campsite (near Saint Andre), 67 km
Tents were dry this morning and we left in good spirits. However, we soon had a headwind which stayed with us all day, only growing in velocity. A local cyclist said that this was unusual as normally it was less strong and out of the west.
Near Village des Aulnaies we left Hwy #132 and went onto the bike path which had a crushed gravel surface. The path was quite close to the St. Lawrence River which was quite wide at this point and so we were even more exposed to the headwinds. We picked up new maps at the info center at Ville de la Pocatiere and continued on the bike path for another 5 kilometers; we had an unexpected portage over a wide ditch in which a culvert was being installed.
St. Denis, our proposed coffee stop, had no services so we continued on to Kamouraska which is a lovely destination, full of cyclists and tourists. We had lunch/coffee and decided to head to Saint Andre and reassess our destination for the day.
So here we stayed after a day of slogging against the wind and averaging 15 kph. The campsite was run by a environmental group and was quite lovely.
Near Village des Aulnaies we left Hwy #132 and went onto the bike path which had a crushed gravel surface. The path was quite close to the St. Lawrence River which was quite wide at this point and so we were even more exposed to the headwinds. We picked up new maps at the info center at Ville de la Pocatiere and continued on the bike path for another 5 kilometers; we had an unexpected portage over a wide ditch in which a culvert was being installed.
St. Denis, our proposed coffee stop, had no services so we continued on to Kamouraska which is a lovely destination, full of cyclists and tourists. We had lunch/coffee and decided to head to Saint Andre and reassess our destination for the day.
So here we stayed after a day of slogging against the wind and averaging 15 kph. The campsite was run by a environmental group and was quite lovely.
Tuesday, August 5, 2008
Day 72, Tuesday, Aug. 5, Saint-Jean-Port-Joli, 84 km
We left Levis with threatening skies and a strong headwind. The wind has continued but the sun finally came out. I think that today`s cycle was the most interesting for a long time. The villages were about 8 kilometres apart and very pretty. Sainte-Bellechasse stands out for all its white houses, Berthier-sur-Mer for the properties along the river, Cap-Saint-Ignace for its old but very well-kept unique homes and Islet-sur-Mer for one of the few public accesses to the water. We could see the Laurentien Mountains on the other side of the Saint Lawrence.
As we cycled we saw lots of other cyclists travelling, some for the day but others on longer trips. It is obviously an area that is promoted for cycle-touring. We have a wonderful booklet showing the various tours along this side of the St. Lawrence.
Saint-Jean-Port-Joli is an interesting village with lots of wood-carvers and other artisans. There are a lot of tourists here and varied accommodation for them, including bed and breakfasts. Our campsite is right in town.
I used the public library to catch up the blog. I was very lucky to find it open as it opened today for the first time since June 28!
posted by Yvonne
As we cycled we saw lots of other cyclists travelling, some for the day but others on longer trips. It is obviously an area that is promoted for cycle-touring. We have a wonderful booklet showing the various tours along this side of the St. Lawrence.
Saint-Jean-Port-Joli is an interesting village with lots of wood-carvers and other artisans. There are a lot of tourists here and varied accommodation for them, including bed and breakfasts. Our campsite is right in town.
I used the public library to catch up the blog. I was very lucky to find it open as it opened today for the first time since June 28!
posted by Yvonne
Day 71, Monday, Aug. 4, Levis, rest day
We slept in, had French toast for breakfast, and took taxis (except for Pat and Adele who cycled) to the ferry dock. The ferry runs every half hour so we did not have to wait long.
Quebec City has a wonderful ambience which is very European. Lots of flower boxes, cobblestone streets, houses built right to the street and cafes and restaurants attracted the most tourists we have seen so far. We aimed for a large craft fair (Brenda and Ute later found they had the same taste in leather purses)and then went our separate ways. I found the huge market down by the marina as I was to buy for dinner....meat pies, salad makings, pastries and strawberries soon loaded me down. It is exciting to be able to buy local strawberries at the same time as the raspberries and blueberries are in season...quite different from home.
We returned to the campsite to find the wind still howling and from the east, of course. Jim and Ute ventured by bike down into Levis and returned in the dark.
by Yvonne
Quebec City has a wonderful ambience which is very European. Lots of flower boxes, cobblestone streets, houses built right to the street and cafes and restaurants attracted the most tourists we have seen so far. We aimed for a large craft fair (Brenda and Ute later found they had the same taste in leather purses)and then went our separate ways. I found the huge market down by the marina as I was to buy for dinner....meat pies, salad makings, pastries and strawberries soon loaded me down. It is exciting to be able to buy local strawberries at the same time as the raspberries and blueberries are in season...quite different from home.
We returned to the campsite to find the wind still howling and from the east, of course. Jim and Ute ventured by bike down into Levis and returned in the dark.
by Yvonne
Day 70, Sunday, August 3, Levis, 71 km
Well, it rained again last night. The wind was blowing from the east as we headed out on Hwy 132 but it was not raining.
We stopped in Saint-Antoine-de-Tilly at the Mansion-de-Tilly, a 19th century house which has been converted into a spa, for our second breakfast. It was quite a posh place for us but the pricy breakfast included a buffet of cheese, pastries, fruit, pate and juice so was actually a good deal. A local came in to speak with Adele about our trip; he cycles with Quebec Velo and is planning a cross-Canada trip in 2010.
We continued on 8 kilometres past the strip mall of Levis to our campsite (Fort de la Martiniere) which overlooks the St. Lawrence. Remember that wind? It is here in full force and we hid in the RV to have our dinner. Here there are people from California, Ontario and Manitoba; the different licence plates are a novelty for us because we have only seen Quebec plates so far.
written by Yvonne, catching up!
We stopped in Saint-Antoine-de-Tilly at the Mansion-de-Tilly, a 19th century house which has been converted into a spa, for our second breakfast. It was quite a posh place for us but the pricy breakfast included a buffet of cheese, pastries, fruit, pate and juice so was actually a good deal. A local came in to speak with Adele about our trip; he cycles with Quebec Velo and is planning a cross-Canada trip in 2010.
We continued on 8 kilometres past the strip mall of Levis to our campsite (Fort de la Martiniere) which overlooks the St. Lawrence. Remember that wind? It is here in full force and we hid in the RV to have our dinner. Here there are people from California, Ontario and Manitoba; the different licence plates are a novelty for us because we have only seen Quebec plates so far.
written by Yvonne, catching up!
Day 69, Saturday, August 2, Lotbiniere, 81 km
Well, we had a 4 hour thunder and lightning storm last night and woke up, of course, with wet tents. We can not believe this weather, although we have not had to cycle in it yet.
This area, including Becancour and Gentilly, is flat and mainly agricultural. I had my first poutine in St. Pierre-Le-Bequets. Despite the look of it with cheese curds and gravy on fries, it was quite tasty and enjoyable.
People in this area really take pride in their homes and gardens. The farms are prosperous looking and everything is freshly painted, it seems. In Lotbiniere we were shown an old meeting house by a local historian and he also told us about Lotbiniere being one of the belle villages in Quebec. It has many very old homes.
This campground, Belle Vue at Point Platon, is a very exciting spot for families to stay. They also had their Christmas in July event. We unfortunately are stuck up on the hill, in the wind, without running water or electricty! The gusts of wind are very scary.
written by Yvonne in biblioteque in Saint-Jean-Port-Joli
This area, including Becancour and Gentilly, is flat and mainly agricultural. I had my first poutine in St. Pierre-Le-Bequets. Despite the look of it with cheese curds and gravy on fries, it was quite tasty and enjoyable.
People in this area really take pride in their homes and gardens. The farms are prosperous looking and everything is freshly painted, it seems. In Lotbiniere we were shown an old meeting house by a local historian and he also told us about Lotbiniere being one of the belle villages in Quebec. It has many very old homes.
This campground, Belle Vue at Point Platon, is a very exciting spot for families to stay. They also had their Christmas in July event. We unfortunately are stuck up on the hill, in the wind, without running water or electricty! The gusts of wind are very scary.
written by Yvonne in biblioteque in Saint-Jean-Port-Joli
Friday, August 1, 2008
Day 68, Friday, August 1, Nicolet, 71 km
After a relaxing 6:30 breakfast at the hotel we left Sorel either by #132 or by the bike path which paralleled the highway for the first 10 km. The bike path was well-marked, wide, flat and smooth and passed through woods and farm lands. However, it ended abruptly in a gazebo and we had to backtrack a few metres to the nearest exit to the highway.
We wanted to have a shorter day today, partly to take time to view the anticipated pretty villages more closely, and partly because the next nearest campsite would have meant a very long day of cycling. However, the few villages today weren't as unique as yesterday's and the houses were mundane for the most part.
I went into Yamaska to view the church with the two spires that I had seen from across the river yesterday. Others spent time in Pierreville where there were some older, more decorated homes to see. The Baie-du-Febvre area had a bird sanctuary where blackbirds were infesting a nearby cornfield. Coming into Nicolet, a rather large town with many government buildings, I saw the only sign I've seen in Quebec so far that had English! It was for a Munitions Test Center of Department of National Defense.
We crossed several rivers today which flow into the St. Lawrence and the bridges and their approaches were a pleasant break from the flatness of the area.
The weather has brightened up and I think we won't be having another storm tonight!
submitted by Yvonne
We wanted to have a shorter day today, partly to take time to view the anticipated pretty villages more closely, and partly because the next nearest campsite would have meant a very long day of cycling. However, the few villages today weren't as unique as yesterday's and the houses were mundane for the most part.
I went into Yamaska to view the church with the two spires that I had seen from across the river yesterday. Others spent time in Pierreville where there were some older, more decorated homes to see. The Baie-du-Febvre area had a bird sanctuary where blackbirds were infesting a nearby cornfield. Coming into Nicolet, a rather large town with many government buildings, I saw the only sign I've seen in Quebec so far that had English! It was for a Munitions Test Center of Department of National Defense.
We crossed several rivers today which flow into the St. Lawrence and the bridges and their approaches were a pleasant break from the flatness of the area.
The weather has brightened up and I think we won't be having another storm tonight!
submitted by Yvonne
Day 67, Thursday, July 31, Sorel, 117 km.
At breakfast this morning we discussed the huge thunder and lightning storm which occurred during the night, sounding very close to the campsite. It lasted two hours and one strike was so close that it apparently stripped a tree just 20 feet from Jim and Ute's tent....we did not notice it but Brenda did as she was leaving because the other campers were looking at the damage. Good thing we didn't know until later! I also heard a plane coming in very low to Mirabel Airport. A very unsettling night!
We headed out on #158 (which changed to #339 later) through Ste-Sophie which looked like horse country. Along the way a large dog dashed across the road to accost us; Dave 3 swore at it in French to no avail. We passed several fromageries and dropped in at one to purchase several cheeses and sausage. This area has large, prosperous-looking dairy farms, soyabean fields and corn fields, and quite flat terrain. The road sometimes had a bikelane but with little traffic safety wasn't an issue.
We saw several villages, in particular, St. Roch de l'Achigan, which had very interesting homes and shops. The houses in the countryside had large, well-manicured lawns and lots of flowers and/or ornaments in the gardens. The homes are highly decorated and each is unique. There were many Mansard and Normandie roofs, even on the new homes. In the villages the homes and shops tended to be brightly painted with wrap-around porches and elaborate balconies. We all wished we had more time to explore this beautiful area.
Finally, at St. Sulpice we turned onto #138, heading north, and had our first view of the mighty St. Lawrence River. Unfortunately it had a haze covering it so was rather gray but nonetheless, it was exciting to see. After a quick lunch by the river we continued on. There were acreages extending to the river with mansions far back from the road and older large homes closer to the road. There were several antique stores but surprisingly, only one bed and breakfast.
Finally we arrived at the ferry to Sorel. While we were waiting Brenda phoned to say that the campsite where we were to stay was having a thunder and lightning storm and that our sites were flooded! She suggested that we look for accommodation in Sorel instead of heading 30 km to the north. With help from tourist information we all ended up in a nice hotel..Auberge de la Rive.....where we were happy to wait out the storm.
submitted by Yvonne
We headed out on #158 (which changed to #339 later) through Ste-Sophie which looked like horse country. Along the way a large dog dashed across the road to accost us; Dave 3 swore at it in French to no avail. We passed several fromageries and dropped in at one to purchase several cheeses and sausage. This area has large, prosperous-looking dairy farms, soyabean fields and corn fields, and quite flat terrain. The road sometimes had a bikelane but with little traffic safety wasn't an issue.
We saw several villages, in particular, St. Roch de l'Achigan, which had very interesting homes and shops. The houses in the countryside had large, well-manicured lawns and lots of flowers and/or ornaments in the gardens. The homes are highly decorated and each is unique. There were many Mansard and Normandie roofs, even on the new homes. In the villages the homes and shops tended to be brightly painted with wrap-around porches and elaborate balconies. We all wished we had more time to explore this beautiful area.
Finally, at St. Sulpice we turned onto #138, heading north, and had our first view of the mighty St. Lawrence River. Unfortunately it had a haze covering it so was rather gray but nonetheless, it was exciting to see. After a quick lunch by the river we continued on. There were acreages extending to the river with mansions far back from the road and older large homes closer to the road. There were several antique stores but surprisingly, only one bed and breakfast.
Finally we arrived at the ferry to Sorel. While we were waiting Brenda phoned to say that the campsite where we were to stay was having a thunder and lightning storm and that our sites were flooded! She suggested that we look for accommodation in Sorel instead of heading 30 km to the north. With help from tourist information we all ended up in a nice hotel..Auberge de la Rive.....where we were happy to wait out the storm.
submitted by Yvonne
Day 66, Wednesday, July 30, St. Jerome, 113 km.
Today we went to visit the amazing Chateau Montebello and stayed for coffee/breakfast. Some of the Starbucks addicts complained about the quality of the coffee, but we all enjoyed the amazing log structure. We all decided we wanted to stay as far away from Montreal as possible in order to avoid the heaviest traffic.
The Quebec countryside was very pastoral and beautiful, and was dotted with charming villages. In Ontario we saw homes and restaurants for sale, but here we saw mainly homes for sale while paradoxically new monster homes (chateaus) are being built that seem to be designed for the wealthy, likely from Montreal.
We did get lost on our way to the campground and spent considerable time on cellphones sorting out how to get to our intended destination. We had to leave the flat lowlands and head into the hills for several kilometers before reaching the largest private RV campground I have ever seen, Camping Lac Fontaine at Saint Jerome. Submitted by Carol.
The Quebec countryside was very pastoral and beautiful, and was dotted with charming villages. In Ontario we saw homes and restaurants for sale, but here we saw mainly homes for sale while paradoxically new monster homes (chateaus) are being built that seem to be designed for the wealthy, likely from Montreal.
We did get lost on our way to the campground and spent considerable time on cellphones sorting out how to get to our intended destination. We had to leave the flat lowlands and head into the hills for several kilometers before reaching the largest private RV campground I have ever seen, Camping Lac Fontaine at Saint Jerome. Submitted by Carol.
Day 65, Tuesday, July 29, Plaisance, Quebec
Would you believe, we left the seemingly endless province of Ontario today. After a two day rest in Ottawa, we left our respective billets (me with Lorna and Ian in Blackburn Hamlet; David and Brenda, Dave and Pat and Adele with Nancy and Paul in Kanata and in between Jim and Ute with Elizabeth and Ed and Yvonne with Lynne) and met at predetermined spots along the Western and Eastern Parkway to be led out of Ottawa on its fabulous bike routes. I had the shortest ride to Cumberland where we crossed to Quebec on a small ferry to Masson, Quebec!
After a quick lunch Nancy, Renaud and Ed returned to Ottawa and we continued along highway 148 to a “national campground” (meaning Quebec provincial campground) at Point Plaisance. On the highway we had shoulders with lines and no hills but reasonably heavy traffic including quite a few trucks. The campground itself was about 7 km from the highway on an island in the Ottawa River. Some riders had covered 100 km today, while I got off lucky with just over 60.
After supper we celebrated our new province with cake and our fifth candle to commemorate yet another province conquered. We had an additional ceremony when we burned our Ontario maps…. Submitted by Carol.
After a quick lunch Nancy, Renaud and Ed returned to Ottawa and we continued along highway 148 to a “national campground” (meaning Quebec provincial campground) at Point Plaisance. On the highway we had shoulders with lines and no hills but reasonably heavy traffic including quite a few trucks. The campground itself was about 7 km from the highway on an island in the Ottawa River. Some riders had covered 100 km today, while I got off lucky with just over 60.
After supper we celebrated our new province with cake and our fifth candle to commemorate yet another province conquered. We had an additional ceremony when we burned our Ontario maps…. Submitted by Carol.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)