Tuesday, August 5, 2008

Day 71, Monday, Aug. 4, Levis, rest day

We slept in, had French toast for breakfast, and took taxis (except for Pat and Adele who cycled) to the ferry dock. The ferry runs every half hour so we did not have to wait long.

Quebec City has a wonderful ambience which is very European. Lots of flower boxes, cobblestone streets, houses built right to the street and cafes and restaurants attracted the most tourists we have seen so far. We aimed for a large craft fair (Brenda and Ute later found they had the same taste in leather purses)and then went our separate ways. I found the huge market down by the marina as I was to buy for dinner....meat pies, salad makings, pastries and strawberries soon loaded me down. It is exciting to be able to buy local strawberries at the same time as the raspberries and blueberries are in season...quite different from home.

We returned to the campsite to find the wind still howling and from the east, of course. Jim and Ute ventured by bike down into Levis and returned in the dark.

by Yvonne

Day 70, Sunday, August 3, Levis, 71 km

Well, it rained again last night. The wind was blowing from the east as we headed out on Hwy 132 but it was not raining.

We stopped in Saint-Antoine-de-Tilly at the Mansion-de-Tilly, a 19th century house which has been converted into a spa, for our second breakfast. It was quite a posh place for us but the pricy breakfast included a buffet of cheese, pastries, fruit, pate and juice so was actually a good deal. A local came in to speak with Adele about our trip; he cycles with Quebec Velo and is planning a cross-Canada trip in 2010.

We continued on 8 kilometres past the strip mall of Levis to our campsite (Fort de la Martiniere) which overlooks the St. Lawrence. Remember that wind? It is here in full force and we hid in the RV to have our dinner. Here there are people from California, Ontario and Manitoba; the different licence plates are a novelty for us because we have only seen Quebec plates so far.

written by Yvonne, catching up!

Day 69, Saturday, August 2, Lotbiniere, 81 km

Well, we had a 4 hour thunder and lightning storm last night and woke up, of course, with wet tents. We can not believe this weather, although we have not had to cycle in it yet.

This area, including Becancour and Gentilly, is flat and mainly agricultural. I had my first poutine in St. Pierre-Le-Bequets. Despite the look of it with cheese curds and gravy on fries, it was quite tasty and enjoyable.

People in this area really take pride in their homes and gardens. The farms are prosperous looking and everything is freshly painted, it seems. In Lotbiniere we were shown an old meeting house by a local historian and he also told us about Lotbiniere being one of the belle villages in Quebec. It has many very old homes.

This campground, Belle Vue at Point Platon, is a very exciting spot for families to stay. They also had their Christmas in July event. We unfortunately are stuck up on the hill, in the wind, without running water or electricty! The gusts of wind are very scary.

written by Yvonne in biblioteque in Saint-Jean-Port-Joli

Friday, August 1, 2008

Day 68, Friday, August 1, Nicolet, 71 km

After a relaxing 6:30 breakfast at the hotel we left Sorel either by #132 or by the bike path which paralleled the highway for the first 10 km. The bike path was well-marked, wide, flat and smooth and passed through woods and farm lands. However, it ended abruptly in a gazebo and we had to backtrack a few metres to the nearest exit to the highway.

We wanted to have a shorter day today, partly to take time to view the anticipated pretty villages more closely, and partly because the next nearest campsite would have meant a very long day of cycling. However, the few villages today weren't as unique as yesterday's and the houses were mundane for the most part.

I went into Yamaska to view the church with the two spires that I had seen from across the river yesterday. Others spent time in Pierreville where there were some older, more decorated homes to see. The Baie-du-Febvre area had a bird sanctuary where blackbirds were infesting a nearby cornfield. Coming into Nicolet, a rather large town with many government buildings, I saw the only sign I've seen in Quebec so far that had English! It was for a Munitions Test Center of Department of National Defense.

We crossed several rivers today which flow into the St. Lawrence and the bridges and their approaches were a pleasant break from the flatness of the area.

The weather has brightened up and I think we won't be having another storm tonight!
submitted by Yvonne

Day 67, Thursday, July 31, Sorel, 117 km.

At breakfast this morning we discussed the huge thunder and lightning storm which occurred during the night, sounding very close to the campsite. It lasted two hours and one strike was so close that it apparently stripped a tree just 20 feet from Jim and Ute's tent....we did not notice it but Brenda did as she was leaving because the other campers were looking at the damage. Good thing we didn't know until later! I also heard a plane coming in very low to Mirabel Airport. A very unsettling night!

We headed out on #158 (which changed to #339 later) through Ste-Sophie which looked like horse country. Along the way a large dog dashed across the road to accost us; Dave 3 swore at it in French to no avail. We passed several fromageries and dropped in at one to purchase several cheeses and sausage. This area has large, prosperous-looking dairy farms, soyabean fields and corn fields, and quite flat terrain. The road sometimes had a bikelane but with little traffic safety wasn't an issue.

We saw several villages, in particular, St. Roch de l'Achigan, which had very interesting homes and shops. The houses in the countryside had large, well-manicured lawns and lots of flowers and/or ornaments in the gardens. The homes are highly decorated and each is unique. There were many Mansard and Normandie roofs, even on the new homes. In the villages the homes and shops tended to be brightly painted with wrap-around porches and elaborate balconies. We all wished we had more time to explore this beautiful area.

Finally, at St. Sulpice we turned onto #138, heading north, and had our first view of the mighty St. Lawrence River. Unfortunately it had a haze covering it so was rather gray but nonetheless, it was exciting to see. After a quick lunch by the river we continued on. There were acreages extending to the river with mansions far back from the road and older large homes closer to the road. There were several antique stores but surprisingly, only one bed and breakfast.

Finally we arrived at the ferry to Sorel. While we were waiting Brenda phoned to say that the campsite where we were to stay was having a thunder and lightning storm and that our sites were flooded! She suggested that we look for accommodation in Sorel instead of heading 30 km to the north. With help from tourist information we all ended up in a nice hotel..Auberge de la Rive.....where we were happy to wait out the storm.
submitted by Yvonne

Day 66, Wednesday, July 30, St. Jerome, 113 km.

Today we went to visit the amazing Chateau Montebello and stayed for coffee/breakfast. Some of the Starbucks addicts complained about the quality of the coffee, but we all enjoyed the amazing log structure. We all decided we wanted to stay as far away from Montreal as possible in order to avoid the heaviest traffic.

The Quebec countryside was very pastoral and beautiful, and was dotted with charming villages. In Ontario we saw homes and restaurants for sale, but here we saw mainly homes for sale while paradoxically new monster homes (chateaus) are being built that seem to be designed for the wealthy, likely from Montreal.

We did get lost on our way to the campground and spent considerable time on cellphones sorting out how to get to our intended destination. We had to leave the flat lowlands and head into the hills for several kilometers before reaching the largest private RV campground I have ever seen, Camping Lac Fontaine at Saint Jerome. Submitted by Carol.

Day 65, Tuesday, July 29, Plaisance, Quebec

Would you believe, we left the seemingly endless province of Ontario today. After a two day rest in Ottawa, we left our respective billets (me with Lorna and Ian in Blackburn Hamlet; David and Brenda, Dave and Pat and Adele with Nancy and Paul in Kanata and in between Jim and Ute with Elizabeth and Ed and Yvonne with Lynne) and met at predetermined spots along the Western and Eastern Parkway to be led out of Ottawa on its fabulous bike routes. I had the shortest ride to Cumberland where we crossed to Quebec on a small ferry to Masson, Quebec!

After a quick lunch Nancy, Renaud and Ed returned to Ottawa and we continued along highway 148 to a “national campground” (meaning Quebec provincial campground) at Point Plaisance. On the highway we had shoulders with lines and no hills but reasonably heavy traffic including quite a few trucks. The campground itself was about 7 km from the highway on an island in the Ottawa River. Some riders had covered 100 km today, while I got off lucky with just over 60.

After supper we celebrated our new province with cake and our fifth candle to commemorate yet another province conquered. We had an additional ceremony when we burned our Ontario maps…. Submitted by Carol.