We started our new routine today of a half-hour later start as it is dark at 6 a.m. with the time zone change that happened at the border.
We continued on Hwy #105 south to Florenceville, the French Fry Capital of the World, which has a large McCain's factory and the Potato World Museum. Obviously, we passed numerous potato fields. We crossed the St. John River on #130 heading south.
At 40 km into the day's ride we entered the village of Hartland, home of the longest covered bridge in the world (1282 feet). We looked down the length of it but didn't venture in as it was narrow and dark inside!
We continued on #105, now on the other side of the river, and the hills began! But we can recommend this road as we had it to ourselves; all the through traffic goes on the new Trans-Canada. At 63 km we came to Woodstock, a large center with a fading downtown area but with new box stores out by the new highway.
Coming out of Woodstock we decided to take the new highway #2. It is a very comfortable ride, road-surface wise with a huge shoulder but has heavy traffic. We wondered about the area having 3 perfectly good roads servicing essentially the same route! At exit #212 it was pointed out to me that leaving at exit #231 meant that we had 19 more kilometres to ride....quite a change from the planned length of ride. We were exhausted riders who came into the lovely View campground at Pokiok.
Again, we noticed the lack of tourists during the high season for travelling....lousy weather and high gas prices seem to be the cause.
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
Day 76, Saturday, Aug. 9, 17 km south of Perth-Andover, NB, 92 km
Not a very auspicious start to the day. It began raining shortly before 6:OO in the morning. It wasn't difficult to convince everyone to spend an extra half hour in their tents. It's always difficult to predict how a day will play out. Despite a wet and dark morning, the rest of the day turned out pretty well, weather wise.
Highway #130 gave us a gentle downgrade along the St. John River valley through to Grand Falls, where we viewed the river gorge and the falls. It must have been one hell of a portage for the early voyageurs. Following the St. John River valley we continued through the village of Perth - Andover which is divided by the river. Although not the same as the little Quebecois villages, these little NB villages do have their own panache.
We finished the day at 92k at River Country campground, a lovely little spot. Adele and David cooked up a sumptuous meal of "Brenda comfort food" and our little group of intrepid travellers ended the day with a full tummy and a smile on our faces.
A point to ponder - in the immortal words of Tolkien - " all those who wander are not lost '!--Pat!!
Highway #130 gave us a gentle downgrade along the St. John River valley through to Grand Falls, where we viewed the river gorge and the falls. It must have been one hell of a portage for the early voyageurs. Following the St. John River valley we continued through the village of Perth - Andover which is divided by the river. Although not the same as the little Quebecois villages, these little NB villages do have their own panache.
We finished the day at 92k at River Country campground, a lovely little spot. Adele and David cooked up a sumptuous meal of "Brenda comfort food" and our little group of intrepid travellers ended the day with a full tummy and a smile on our faces.
A point to ponder - in the immortal words of Tolkien - " all those who wander are not lost '!--Pat!!
Day 74 & 75, continued by Jim and Ute re trail system
Petit Temis Interprovincial Linear Park
The 134 km Temis connects Riviere-du-Loup, QC and Edmundston, NB on an abandoned railroad bed and does not exceed 4% grade. The trail surface is well-packed screened gravel, but is not recommended for narrow bicycle tires (anything less than 30 mm width). Our moderately laden tandem is on 35 mm tires and was not compromised, except in one or two ery short (5 to 10 m) sections of interim repairs following recent trail wash-outs. Yes, part of the trail is paved, but is limited to a half-kilometre section within each of two villages.
Throughout the entire length of this delightfully scenic and picturesque trail, we observed (and made occasional use of) frequently located (dry) toilet facilities and convenient covered picnic tables. Many of the rest areas also included well designed and constructed tent platforms, estimated at about 4 metres square.
Soon after leaving Riviere-du-Loup, we noted a fully modern flush toilet facility, and later encountered a small, trail-side cafe in an old station house.
As we proceeded from one village to another, we were presented with many different vistas as well as a variety of wildflowers.
This trail - for the exclusive use of pedestrians and bicyclists - is also designated as parts of the Trans-Canada Trail and La Route Verte systems. It is our recommendation that this trail should be properly asphalt paved for its entire length.
Additional (non-personal) information is available at http://www.petit-temis.com/
submitted by Ute and Jim
The 134 km Temis connects Riviere-du-Loup, QC and Edmundston, NB on an abandoned railroad bed and does not exceed 4% grade. The trail surface is well-packed screened gravel, but is not recommended for narrow bicycle tires (anything less than 30 mm width). Our moderately laden tandem is on 35 mm tires and was not compromised, except in one or two ery short (5 to 10 m) sections of interim repairs following recent trail wash-outs. Yes, part of the trail is paved, but is limited to a half-kilometre section within each of two villages.
Throughout the entire length of this delightfully scenic and picturesque trail, we observed (and made occasional use of) frequently located (dry) toilet facilities and convenient covered picnic tables. Many of the rest areas also included well designed and constructed tent platforms, estimated at about 4 metres square.
Soon after leaving Riviere-du-Loup, we noted a fully modern flush toilet facility, and later encountered a small, trail-side cafe in an old station house.
As we proceeded from one village to another, we were presented with many different vistas as well as a variety of wildflowers.
This trail - for the exclusive use of pedestrians and bicyclists - is also designated as parts of the Trans-Canada Trail and La Route Verte systems. It is our recommendation that this trail should be properly asphalt paved for its entire length.
Additional (non-personal) information is available at http://www.petit-temis.com/
submitted by Ute and Jim
Day 75, Aug. 8, Riviere Grande, St Leonard, N.B., 93 km
We put our watches forward at the border to our new province. The Info Centre was excellent, with well informed staff and we got lots of little tips about how to navigate N.B. with its new and old highway systems often running parallel to each other. It felt good conquering yet another province and entering what we are all taking as the final phase of this incredible journey.
Some people took the new highway, highway 2, which was hilly, fast, busy and with good shoulders. Others took highway 144 which was pleasant, quiet and flat. Nevertheless, we all had to get over the remaining wicked hills in the last few kms. of Quebec.
It was a "short" day for us. The weather was off and on rain, some wind but not bad, river at our side, etc. etc. The Info centre suggested we have a meal at a motel/auberge - this is the French end of N.B. after all - not far from the border. We went there but they didn't serve lunch. We were a bit early, but from th linen tablecloths, we wondered if their statement should have included "we don't serve lunch wo wet, bedraggled cyslists. So we went on to a canteen, self designated as the best in the region.
We enjoyed the ride to the campsite which was virtually empty because it rained here 29 days in June and 22 in July and pretty much every day so far in August. People are staying away in droves. Campgrounds are waterlogged, and for that matter, so are we!
Tomorrow is another day. Submitted by Carol.
Some people took the new highway, highway 2, which was hilly, fast, busy and with good shoulders. Others took highway 144 which was pleasant, quiet and flat. Nevertheless, we all had to get over the remaining wicked hills in the last few kms. of Quebec.
It was a "short" day for us. The weather was off and on rain, some wind but not bad, river at our side, etc. etc. The Info centre suggested we have a meal at a motel/auberge - this is the French end of N.B. after all - not far from the border. We went there but they didn't serve lunch. We were a bit early, but from th linen tablecloths, we wondered if their statement should have included "we don't serve lunch wo wet, bedraggled cyslists. So we went on to a canteen, self designated as the best in the region.
We enjoyed the ride to the campsite which was virtually empty because it rained here 29 days in June and 22 in July and pretty much every day so far in August. People are staying away in droves. Campgrounds are waterlogged, and for that matter, so are we!
Tomorrow is another day. Submitted by Carol.
Day 74, Thursday, Aug. 7 Municipal campground, Notre Dame du Lac 115 km
We left Sebka early (7:30) in an effort to get out ahead of the wind, which we noticed seems to get stronger as the day gets longer. We succeeded; however we didn't anticipate the fog that remained with us even as the wind sprung up - need I say, in our faces. By the time we got to Riviere du Loup, the fog had lifted and the winds had not reached the level of yesterday.
Riviere du Loup has a very high hill that goes straight up the escarpment. When we asked how to get to the the highly recommended trail that runs all the way to Edmunston in New Brunswick we were told at the info centre to go straight up that hill and turn right at the top. It so happens that one or two of us knew that there was an easier way than straight up. This route turned off about two blocks into the ride, before the hill. Dave 3, now known as David, was in the lead. He didn't know about the bicycle detour and went straight up the hill. Apparently near the top he looked back (he says it was about a 14% grade) to see that he was all alone. The rest of had taken the easier route. David survived and the rest of us had a good laugh. Though I suppose he had the last laugh for having survived a four block hill at such a steep pitch.
The day wasn't over however. Dave, David and I decided we should try to take the trail. We went a short distance on the Petit Temis trail (to be described by Ute and Jim later) but found it was too soft for our bikes and we decided we needed to go on the highway instead. We lost about an hour going in circles but advancing only about 5 km, but made good time once we got on the highway (185) which was hillier but had good shoulders. Of course, we had to expect hills as we were going over a mountain range. At the end of the day we had logged 115 km.
Dave and I were the cooks for the day so our day was especially long before we could relax and enjoy the lovely lake we were camped beside.
Submitted by Carol.
Riviere du Loup has a very high hill that goes straight up the escarpment. When we asked how to get to the the highly recommended trail that runs all the way to Edmunston in New Brunswick we were told at the info centre to go straight up that hill and turn right at the top. It so happens that one or two of us knew that there was an easier way than straight up. This route turned off about two blocks into the ride, before the hill. Dave 3, now known as David, was in the lead. He didn't know about the bicycle detour and went straight up the hill. Apparently near the top he looked back (he says it was about a 14% grade) to see that he was all alone. The rest of had taken the easier route. David survived and the rest of us had a good laugh. Though I suppose he had the last laugh for having survived a four block hill at such a steep pitch.
The day wasn't over however. Dave, David and I decided we should try to take the trail. We went a short distance on the Petit Temis trail (to be described by Ute and Jim later) but found it was too soft for our bikes and we decided we needed to go on the highway instead. We lost about an hour going in circles but advancing only about 5 km, but made good time once we got on the highway (185) which was hillier but had good shoulders. Of course, we had to expect hills as we were going over a mountain range. At the end of the day we had logged 115 km.
Dave and I were the cooks for the day so our day was especially long before we could relax and enjoy the lovely lake we were camped beside.
Submitted by Carol.
Day 73, Wednesday, Aug. 6, Sebka campsite (near Saint Andre), 67 km
Tents were dry this morning and we left in good spirits. However, we soon had a headwind which stayed with us all day, only growing in velocity. A local cyclist said that this was unusual as normally it was less strong and out of the west.
Near Village des Aulnaies we left Hwy #132 and went onto the bike path which had a crushed gravel surface. The path was quite close to the St. Lawrence River which was quite wide at this point and so we were even more exposed to the headwinds. We picked up new maps at the info center at Ville de la Pocatiere and continued on the bike path for another 5 kilometers; we had an unexpected portage over a wide ditch in which a culvert was being installed.
St. Denis, our proposed coffee stop, had no services so we continued on to Kamouraska which is a lovely destination, full of cyclists and tourists. We had lunch/coffee and decided to head to Saint Andre and reassess our destination for the day.
So here we stayed after a day of slogging against the wind and averaging 15 kph. The campsite was run by a environmental group and was quite lovely.
Near Village des Aulnaies we left Hwy #132 and went onto the bike path which had a crushed gravel surface. The path was quite close to the St. Lawrence River which was quite wide at this point and so we were even more exposed to the headwinds. We picked up new maps at the info center at Ville de la Pocatiere and continued on the bike path for another 5 kilometers; we had an unexpected portage over a wide ditch in which a culvert was being installed.
St. Denis, our proposed coffee stop, had no services so we continued on to Kamouraska which is a lovely destination, full of cyclists and tourists. We had lunch/coffee and decided to head to Saint Andre and reassess our destination for the day.
So here we stayed after a day of slogging against the wind and averaging 15 kph. The campsite was run by a environmental group and was quite lovely.
Tuesday, August 5, 2008
Day 72, Tuesday, Aug. 5, Saint-Jean-Port-Joli, 84 km
We left Levis with threatening skies and a strong headwind. The wind has continued but the sun finally came out. I think that today`s cycle was the most interesting for a long time. The villages were about 8 kilometres apart and very pretty. Sainte-Bellechasse stands out for all its white houses, Berthier-sur-Mer for the properties along the river, Cap-Saint-Ignace for its old but very well-kept unique homes and Islet-sur-Mer for one of the few public accesses to the water. We could see the Laurentien Mountains on the other side of the Saint Lawrence.
As we cycled we saw lots of other cyclists travelling, some for the day but others on longer trips. It is obviously an area that is promoted for cycle-touring. We have a wonderful booklet showing the various tours along this side of the St. Lawrence.
Saint-Jean-Port-Joli is an interesting village with lots of wood-carvers and other artisans. There are a lot of tourists here and varied accommodation for them, including bed and breakfasts. Our campsite is right in town.
I used the public library to catch up the blog. I was very lucky to find it open as it opened today for the first time since June 28!
posted by Yvonne
As we cycled we saw lots of other cyclists travelling, some for the day but others on longer trips. It is obviously an area that is promoted for cycle-touring. We have a wonderful booklet showing the various tours along this side of the St. Lawrence.
Saint-Jean-Port-Joli is an interesting village with lots of wood-carvers and other artisans. There are a lot of tourists here and varied accommodation for them, including bed and breakfasts. Our campsite is right in town.
I used the public library to catch up the blog. I was very lucky to find it open as it opened today for the first time since June 28!
posted by Yvonne
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